Guides
Written by
Hugo Cannon
A deep-dive into luxury Italian watch brands.
Table of Contents:
Just when you think the country of Italy couldn’t get any better, the land of fast cars, luxury leather goods, and the world’s best pasta also reveals a treasure trove of timepieces.
Italian watch brands have opened up a new realm of aesthetics and technology for the horology landscape, effortlessly blending their own mechanical watchmaking innovations with the flair and elegance the Italians are best known for.
Whether you’re hunting for your next affordable watch or dreaming of splurging on your next – or first – luxury piece, Italy’s got you covered. In this blog, we’re diving wrist-first into the 12 best Italian watch brands that cater to every taste and budget. It might not quite be a grand tour of Italy, but instead of admiring the capital’s Colosseum or Milan’s mesmerizing Duomo, think of this as a stay-at-home tour of Italian wrist candy.
History of Italian Watchmaking
You’d be right to think of Switzerland as the capital of watchmaking because it is. It’s here where some of the biggest and best-known watch brands can be found, and some of the best horological innovations have been created. That said, Italy boasts its own rich and storied history, with some of its first examples of watchmaking tracing back to the Renaissance period.
It is believed that the first Italian-made watch was created during the 15th century by a pioneering clockmaker called Bartolomeo Manfredi. Knowing the Germans had already beaten the Italians to the punch of creating the world’s first pocket watch, the inventor decided to create one better.
In a letter he wrote to Federico Gonzaga, the Marquis of Mantua, he offered him a pocket watch that would make any timepiece already owned by the Duke of Modena look like a “florin-a dozen bauble”.
His efforts, although motivated by one-upmanship, laid the groundwork for Italy’s journey into horology. It was a solitary achievement at the time, but it helped to open the doors for future generations of Italian watchmakers.
But it wasn’t until the 19th and 20th centuries that these generations began to make their mark. One of the first was Voulgari, who “Italianised” his last name to Bulgari, creating wristwatches in limited production in 1884.
Officine Panerai, founded in Florence in 1860, was also one of the first Italian watchmakers to leave an indelible mark on the industry. They originally gained fame for their precision instruments and watches used by the Royal Italian Navy – but more on that shortly.
Today, Italian watch brands are no longer limited by the technologies and materials available in their country but can instead bring together popular Swiss movements with designs that embody Italy’s bold yet effortlessly elegant style.
Top 12 Italian Watch Brands
As its history suggests, Italy produces some excellent watches, typically fusing together some of Switzerland’s best technologies with sleek and sophisticated Italian aesthetics. There’s no doubt these watch brands are known for their precision and durability, but as you’ll quickly find out, style is as equally, if not more, important.
In the same way, Italian fashion is renowned for its attention to detail, quality materials, and flair for the dramatic, Italian watches push the boundaries of watch design yet still somehow cater to a diverse range of tastes.
So, without further ado, let’s dive into the 12 best Italian watch brands, from affordable options that bring a touch of luxury to your everyday look to high-end pieces that represent the pinnacle of Italian horological artistry.
Unimatic
Unimatic Watches, an Italian watchmaker still fairly new to the horology world, is leading the way in today's list. Yet despite their founding in 2015, they have already created a range of easily identifiable watches – something that’s not easy to do in an oversaturated market.
The company was established by two Milan natives, Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato, who started their love of horology by collecting vintage watches until they eventually decided to create a watch themselves.
And so, Unimatic was born. Their first, and still the most popular, model is the Unimatic Modello Uno. The no-nonsense diving instrument is a simple, monochromatic design created with easy legibility and wear in mind. Over the last few years, the brand has expanded its collections even further to include models like the U2, U3, and U4 Classics, all powered by reliable automatic movements and secured to the wrist by comfortable NATO straps.
D1 Milano
We probably don’t need to tell you where D1 Milano comes from – the hint is in the name! D1 Milano is another youthful Italian watch brand with a story that starts in Milan.
The company was founded in 2013 by Dario Spallone and, again, rather quickly, has carved out a unique niche in the competitive world of horology. They are best known for their modern aesthetics, sleek, angular lines, integrated cases, and octagonal bezels.
One of their best-selling models is the Ultra-Thin, a watch that has become synonymous with D1 Milano’s sleek and sophisticated DNA. The name of the watch doesn’t lie, with every case measuring just 6mm tall, thanks to the super slim quartz movement housed inside.
Unsurprisingly, this watch has been favored by those looking for an aesthetic similar to the popular, but hard to obtain, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, but for a much more affordable price point.
Visconti
Next up is Visconti, a distinguished Italian watch brand first founded in 1988 by Dante Del Vecchio. The company first made its name by creating luxurious writing instruments before later expanding into the world of horology. It’s safe to say Visconti is multi-talented in that respect, bringing a passion for intricate design and craftsmanship together with high-performance mechanisms.
The Visconti Opera is one of their better-known watches, epitomizing the Italian watch brand’s flair and creativity. It has a unique modular case with a 4 o’clock crown and a multi-layered dial, often showcasing high-end materials like enamel and gold. Another standout model is the Visconti W110 Grand Cruise, which, as its name suggests, is filled with maritime themes and a chronograph complication.
Gucci
We've all heard of Gucci. We're familiar with the iconic green and red stripes, the famous snake and bee motifs, and the unmistakable double G logo. But what many aren’t aware of, and that includes even the world’s most avid watch collectors, is that Gucci is home to an impressive selection of luxury watches.
Established in Florence in 1921, Gucci brings its signature Italian flair and high-end fashion aesthetic to every timepiece, and surprisingly, even has some haute-horlogerie examples to boot.
One of the latter is the Gucci 25H, a watch launched in a variety of iterations, including a skeletonized tourbillon model. Tourbillon watches are a rare sight in the watchmaking world since they are difficult to master.
But, with the 25H, Gucci has demonstrated a clear and exceptional commitment to precision and craftsmanship. They also have some more affordable models in the collection, including the G-Timeless and the Gucci Dive, which are both robust, stylish, and filled with Gucci’s most famous motifs.
Versace
Another Italian fashion brand with an almost unknown collection of luxury timepieces under its belt is Versace. These watches are bold, glamorous, and ornate – much like the company’s clothing – openly reflecting the brand’s expressive design philosophy.
The brand was founded by Gianni Versace in 1978, becoming a powerhouse for its clothing line, vivid prints, and iconic Medusa motif. It wasn’t until the 1990s that Versace launched their watch collection.
There’s no shortage of men’s and women’s Versace watches to choose from. One of the most standout designs is the Versace V-Circle Tribute Edition, which wholeheartedly pays tribute to the brand’s bold and glamorous heritage by showcasing a unique bezel adorned with the iconic Greca pattern and Medusa logo.
Equally as loud, the Versace Palazzo Empire brings to life the architectural grandeur of Versace’s Palazzo in Milan. This model is largely characterized by its distinctive round case and Medusa logo at the twelve o’clock mark.
Anonimo
An Italian watch brand that has effortlessly combined traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques with Italian design is Anonimo. Founded in Florence in 1997 by Federico Massacesi, Anonimo has become widely known in the world of professional diving, particularly amongst the famous C.N.S. (Cooperativa Nazionale Sommozzatori). Their innovations, like the screw-in crown locking system, have allowed Anonimo to create waterproof diving watches up to 1,000 meters.
One of their best-selling dive watches is the Anonimo Militare. It pays homage to the brand’s military roots with a vintage-inspired cushion-shaped case, pronounced lugs, and a unique crown positioned at 12 o’clock. The Anonimo Nautilo is another contender for any luxury watch collector’s wrist, taking its name from the Italian word for “sailor” with another sophisticated set of dive characteristics.
Locman
Locman watches are the children of founder and President Marco Mantovani. He originally founded Locman as a design services firm, working with some of the world’s most major Swiss watchmakers, before eventually expanding into third-party watch production.
By 1987, Locman partnered with GENESI, a renowned Milanese watch factory, so he could produce high-quality Italian watches that were notably more affordable than their Swiss counterparts.
Many of Locman’s collections are inspired by the rugged beauty of the company’s Mediterranean surroundings. The Locman Stealth 300 Metri is one of the same. The robust diving watch has a bold design with a lightweight titanium case, 300-meter water resistance, and a rotating bezel.
Another notable collection is the Montecristo, named after the picturesque island off the Tuscan coast. These are sleeker and more refined in appearance yet still promise durability and precision thanks to their Swiss quartz movements.
Giuliano Mazzuoli
One of Italy’s greatest gems, Giuliano Mazzuoli’s journey into watchmaking began as a natural evolution of his background in architecture and industrial design. At an early age, he developed a key eye for blending functionality with aesthetic appeal, and prior to launching his eponymous watch brand in 2004, Mazzuoli made significant strides in the design world.
The pivotal moment for Giuliano Mazzuoli Watches came with the introduction of the Manometro in 2005. This timepiece, inspired by traditional pressure gauges used in mechanical engineering, proved this Italian watch brand as a rule-breaker that refuses to conform to conventional watch designs.
Its robust construction and oversized crown became signature elements that symbolized Mazzuoli's commitment to merging industrial inspiration with haute horlogerie.
Officina del Tempo
Another Italian watch brand with roots deeply embedded in the country’s rich horological traditions is Officina del Tempo. Despite calling themselves a “fashion brand”, we think Officina del Tempo is much more than this. Since its founding in 2000, they have made it their mission to remind a world full of convenient technology of the irresistible charm of mechanical watches.
The OT-1033 collection is a perfect example of this. The range of dress watches exemplifies Officina del Tempo's dedication to merging classic styling with modern features such as sleek, two-stepped dials, ultra-thin steel cases, and Swiss-made automatic movements.
The Officina del Tempo OT-1030 is another favorite, particularly with fans of sports watches. Its chronograph complication and oversized crown and pushers make it a shoo-in for the racetrack.
Panerai
One of Italy’s oldest watch brands, Panerai was founded in Florence in 1860 and has a history deeply intertwined with Italian naval heritage. Guided by its founder, Giovanni Panerai, the company began creating precision instruments and timepieces for the Italian Royal Navy.
This led to one of their most pivotal creations, the Radiomir, a watch named after the luminous substance used on its dial for visibility in dark underwater environments.
Another popular Panerai watch is the Luminor. Introduced later in the 1950’s, this watch continued to maintain the Italian watch brand’s dedication to military divers by featuring a distinctive crown-protecting bridge that enhanced water resistance and durability.
The Panerai Luminor's robust construction, legible dial with luminous markers, and reliable automatic movements make it a continued favorite among watch collectors and professional divers alike.
U-Boat
If you’re someone with a penchant for oversized statement watches, then it’s highly likely you’re going to love U-Boat. This Italian watchmaker was established by Italo Fontana in 2000 and has become rather famed for its bold and distinctive approach to watchmaking.
The company was originally inspired to create precision timepieces when Fontana found a handful of drawings created by his grandfather for the Italian Navy during World War II. Ever since, U-Boat watches have been characterized by their substantial cases and unique crown and lever systems placed on the left side of the case.
As its name suggests, one of U-Boat’s best-known models is the Classico. This is a collection that embodies the brand’s signature design elements, including a large case, bold numerals, and distinctive crown placement. Another notable mention is the U-Boat Capsoil, a watch with a movement and dial fully submerged in oil. It’s one of those watches you have to see to believe!
Bulgari
Last but certainly not least, our final Italian watch brand is Bulgari. Founded in Rome in 1884 by Sotirio Bulgari, this company began as a jewelry shop with an unmovable reputation for exquisite craftsmanship, known for using only high-quality materials and gemstones. Eventually, Bulgari expanded to include luxury watches in their portfolio, combining their prowess in jewelry to create stunning timepiece masterpieces.
Bulgari's watchmaking prowess became increasingly evident with iconic collections such as the Bulgari Bulgari, introduced in 1977, and the Octo, introduced in 2004. The Bulgari Bulgari collection is characterized by its distinctive double-logo engraving on the bezel, while the Octo collection is famed for its geometrically inspired octagonal case. Both are perfect examples of the brand’s legacy of excellence and their dedication to pushing boundaries in luxury watch design.
Conclusion
As we end our exploration of the 12 best Italian watch brands, one thing is clear: Italy is not short of incredible watchmakers who have made design, technology, and traditional craftsmanship their forte.
It’s also clear that no matter your budget, whether you’re looking for affordable Italian watches or something more on the luxury side, there are watches to suit everyone.
From iconic watches from Panerai and Bulgari to lesser-known brands like Locman and Unimatic, every Italian watch brand showcased here embodies the true essence of Italian style. These watches tell the tales of tradition, innovation, and, most importantly, beautiful, unforgettable Italian elegance.